The stock brace bars are ok if you're just street driving, but a little more strength is good when you're running a bit harder, or a lot harder. We've made these one piece billet alumimum bars to bolt right in and do the trick. We've also included a weld in gusset kit to add some strength to the bar mounts and LCA mounts.
Brace Bars - General Fitment and installation
The brace bars can be installed with the sub frame still in the car, just unbolt the stock bars and bolt in the new ones with the factory bolting hardware.
Brace Bars - Material
We've machined the bars from 6061-T6 Aluminum to keep them light weight and stiff. We cut them from one piece of stock, so there's no welds to break. We also leave them full profile width and thickenss, removing material will only make them weaker and cost more, we see both of those a down side.
Weld Gussets - General Fitment and installation
When upgrading the bars, it's a good idea to ugrade where they mount or it's just not going to be fully effective. Stiffer bars are only half of the solution.
You could brace between the bars, but if the mounts are still weak, you're not gaining much overall. You'll want to add reinforcement gussets to the rear mouting tabs for the bars to be of full benefit.
The welded in gussets fit pretty simple, just grind off some paint and weld them right to the frame, repaint, and your good to go. You've just reinforced the brace bar mounts. We've also thrown in our LCA mount gussets as well so you can just get them all reinforced at once.
Weld Gussets - Material
The gussets are made from 1/8" mild steel, no special welding alloy or process is required. The material is a bit thicker then the stock frame, so you won't have to worry about blowing a hole in the edge of the gusset with the right settings when welding. Just remove the paint from the sub frame where you;re going to weld and zip the gussets on.
Kit includes:
2 Billet Brace bars
2 Lower control arm gussets
2 Brace bar tab gussets
